When Goethe arrived in Rome in November 1786 at the end of a journey of some 800 km, he declared that he had at last arrived in this capital of the world.

Nun bin ich hier und ruhig und, wie es scheint, auf mein ganzes Leben beruhigt. […] Alle Träume meiner Jugend seh’ich nun lebendig.

Now I am here and calm and, so it appears, appeased for my whole life. […] All the dreams of my childhood I now see come alive.

It would be fair to say that Rome captivated Goethe, both in the anticipation and haste to get there – he stayed a mere 3 hours en route in Florence – and in the reality upon arrival. As we prepared to revisit the city 233 years later for the third time in 18 months, it would seem that Rome has lost none of its fascination and powers of seduction.

Arrival

Goethe felt his dreams of visiting Rome only became certain reality once he had passed through the Porta del Populo, the old city gate for those approaching from the north. Our journey from the north takes us via Fiumicino Airport and then speeding through the western suburbs aboard the Leonardo Express bound for Termini Station.

From the train as it approaches the city we begin to recognise certain landmarks in the areas with which we have become passingly familiar: Trastevere Station, the terminus for the tram line that will take us to much-anticipated cooking courses at Latteria Studios. Over the Tiber and past the Mattatoio, the former abattoir, with the promise of Testaccio market hidden behind it. We glimpse the Monte Testaccio made of discarded amphorae, testament to Rome’s vast imports of olive oil in ancient times. We pass unseen behind Marigold Roma, home of those wonderful cinnamon buns and overall general deliciousness before crossing the Via Ostiense where some really scrumptious pizzas await. Onwards and over the via Appia Antica before turning northwards towards the centre of Rome and the sudden urban clamour of Termini station.

Ja, ich bin endlich in dieser Hauptstadt der Welt angelangt.

Yes. At last I have arrived in this capital of the world.